![]() ![]() These are well worth the money for the payoff in performance, reliability, and time savings they provide. Pertronix and Compufire are the brands I am familiar with. These are great and not very expensive ($50- $75). There are also drop in electronic ignition modules that will replace the points in your distributor altogether. Many of the modern digital automotive meters still have dwell as well. The old analog tach/dwell/volt meters are often very cheap on the used market. This is a lot more accurate way to adjust your points than just gapping them with a feeler gauge. If you are going to run you engine with points you may also want to get a meter that reads dwell angle. You do not even need a tach if the basic timing is set at idle speed on the particular engine you may be working on. The tach feature on the latest digital timing lights is very nice to have but I have always used a separate tach. These are made by Actron and are also available Branded with the Actron name. I have the Craftsman model Red Green linked to. I would definitely get this feature given the $100 price range you mentioned since the adjustable advance also lets you accurately check spark advance (centrifugal, vacuum or computer controlled) on engines ancient to modern. This is also a help if you engine has the wrong stock pulley with the wrong timing mark on it. With the adjustable advance you can time everything off the TDC mark. ![]() If you do not have an advance feature on the light you need to replace the pulley with a degree wheel pulley or make new marks on your old pulley. With these you time to the maximum advance desired instead of setting it at idle. I would get a timing light with an adjustable advance feature if you are running or plan to run a non stock distributor like a Bosch 009. Just about any new timing light should have these features but some old ones that you may find on the used market used neon lamps (dim) and some timing lights may not have the inductive clamp (PITA). I would not bother with any strobe timing light that did not have an inductive pickup clamp and xenon lamp. If everything (distributor, pulley, points) is bone stock you can either static time it with just a 12v (or 6v) test light or use a basic strobe. On this engine you can use a home made static timing/test light and feeler gauge, the latest digital timing light and automotive multi-meter, or anything in between. You just need to decide which features you want. They are backwardly compatible so you do not need to get any sort of "old school" timing light. This helps to see the timing marks.Īny modern timing light will work. Used by people who actually know what they are doing, andĤ. This will go around the wire itself and not require pulling or even, God Forbid, piercing the wire.Īny unit that doesn't meet those two requirements toss in the trash.ģ. An 'induction' connector for the spark plug wire. ![]() Two wires that hook to positive and negative on the battery.Ģ. I use a Jacobs’s ignition timing light with dial back, but I've had it for so many years I couldn't say what they sell for.Īny timing light worth putting in the tool box will haveġ. For your purposes these you would consider non-adjustable. Still later many cars went to Coil Over plug or other variants that don't even have distributors. This started in the 80's and became more and more common. Later cars often have fixed timing, thus no adjustment. On electronic ignitions you can use the timing light to set the initial timing, which is then adjusted on the fly by the ignition control module. Many you were not supposed to adjust but you could.Įxample CCC and CCCC GM ignitions were quite adjustable.Ī GOOD timing light will have 'dial to back to zero' capabilities. The mid range, 72-90's ignitions often had adjustments, though they were virtually all electronic. The old Kettering (points) ignitions were fully adjustable. ![]()
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